INDIA RETREAT FAQ
When shall I purchase airline tickets?
Typically 4-5 months in advance of the trip date gets you reliable prices as more airline companies publish their prices.
Some airlines to consider: Qatar, Emirates, Singapore Airlines, Etihad Air, (in that order of preference) are the best airlines to choose from based on short trip duration, in-flight entertainment, comfortable and spacious seats, hospitality and service, and quality of food . Prices vary based on layovers and airlines, but expect $1400-$1600 as average range for round trip on these airlines.
Airlines to avoid: China Air, or any airline that routes you through airports in China; Air India — they have excellent service, but their planes can be old with somewhat uncomfortable seats.
When shopping for airfare, my preference is “shortest trip duration” (i.e., least number and duration of layovers).
If you fly from a bigger airport (SEATAC instead of PDX), the options of routes increase vastly.
At least 2 hours of international layover is necessary, in case flights run late, and to allow time for checked-in luggage transfer in larger airports such as Dubai, Doha, Singapore, etc.
Do I need a Visa to enter India?
Yes. You must apply for your visa at least 30 days before travel through the E-Visa Application Process. A 30-day e-tourist visa costs $25. You must bring a PRINTED copy of your visa with you.
Do I need Travel Insurance for this trip?
Definitely. There are so many things that can go wrong with the political and environmental conditions of the world today. In 2015 after my yoga training at our monastery, I escaped an absolutely disastrous earthquake in Nepal by the skin of my teeth. Had my flight left another six hours later, I could be stranded for months, injured, dead, or need medical evacuation. 9,000 people were killed and 100,000 people injured, towns were flattened, and most world heritage sites of Nepal severely damaged/collapsed. On our 2023 retreat to Bali, checked-in luggage for a few passengers did not make the connection flight in time. That $100 allowance went a long way in Bali to buy some fashionable clothes and necessities. In 2021, a thunderstorm near the Kolkata airport did not allow the incoming domestic flight (Vistara) to Delhi to land. United Airline marked me up as a no-show at the Delhi airport and I lost $1400 flight ticket during COVID shutdown and had to spend another $1800 for a flight two days later - I did not have traveler’s insurance for that personal trip, and my claims to United were declined three times. Although very rare, and I am taking adequate precautions and vetting, India does have elaborate scammers and one of our several vendors may prove to be so. Fingers crossed, none of this will happen to us.
Useful insurance plan must cover (a) trip interruption, (b) medical urgent care and evacuation, and (c) evacuation for geo-political unrest and natural disasters. Over the past three years the world of insurance for digital nomads has opened up. Here is a list of a few simple, easy, and relatively inexpensive options with comparisons:
Nomad Insurance (SafetyWing) - The overall best
Heymondo - Best for Digital Nomads under the age of 49
Genki - Best for new Digital Nomads
Insured Nomads - Offering largest plan variety
World Nomads - Offering the most comprehensive option
PassportCard - The most innovative option
True Traveller - Best option For Europe and the UK (fyi)
IMG - The most extensive option
Atlas Travel Insurance - Best for customizability
How much luggage can I carry?
The abovementioned airlines, at the time of writing this page, claim 50lbs of free check-in luggage at economy class. In addition, you get a carry-on and a handbag. But please double check at the time of your booking.
Having said that, in this retreat, unlike some of the other retreats with YFL, we will be traveling to several destinations in trains, planes and automobiles throughout. So try to have a compact luggage. India is very well-developed and you can buy good quality clothing and everyday essentials if you need; no need to overpack. See weather conditions below. Loose fitting cotton clothes that you can layer up and one decent jacket to keep you warm and dry will be sufficient.
We will provide you with a specifically designed, detailed packing list.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: We have two domestic flights in India (Delhi to Varanasi, and Varanasi to Chennai). You are allowed a maximum of one 7 Kg (15 pounds)carry-on, and one 20 Kg (44 pounds) check-in luggage. The luggage limitations are stringent on such smaller flights, and you will need to pay for extra luggage weight.
Laundry: Hotels can do this, cheap and quick. There are two locations where we are spending a couple of days: Varanasi and Pondicherry. You can get your laundry done within a day at your own expense (typically $1 per kilogram, which can be approximately 5 t-shirts, or 1 shirt + 1 jeans, or 2 bath towels).
NOTE: Airport security checks in Indian airports can be quite invasive compared to USA and other countries. They will look through everything that you are carrying on the plane thoroughly. They will inspect every electronic item, and often ask you to take off cases and turn on your laptops and tablets. You can usually take water or liquids with you, but you have to drink some of it to show it is safe. There can be multiple check scanners that you pass your luggage through. Please understand that with the tension among India, China and Pakistan, these are necessary for your own safety.
Do I need specific vaccines or medications for India?
Please consult your medical provider for this. These are recommended for India: Typhoid (available as oral vaccine), Hepatitis A and B, and Rabies. People also worry about Malaria. For the most part, we are staying in nice hotels where this is not expected to be a concern, but please bring a good quality bug/mosquito repellant. The predominant and natural medicine for Malaria is Quinine, which is easily available throughout India. There are other pharmaceutical drugs some of which are known to have unbearable hallucinations as side-effects. We would highly recommend that you get a protocol for your India travel from an ND, as opposed to an MD. Your Naturopathic Doctor will discuss highly personalized and realistic pros and cons with very little, if any, side effects. For example, activated bamboo charcoal, Oregano oil, thyme oil, and clove oil and a solid probiotic are very helpful for binding to bad bacteria and viruses in the gut. And, for what it is worth, I used to get Malaria almost every year of my growing up in India and got treated with regular dosages or injections of Quinine. Kelly has traveled several times to India, and has had mosquito bites; itchy small bumps relieved easily by Hydrocortisone creme, Calamine Lotion, or Silver Cream.
Another thing to be careful of is Tetanus, in case you stub your toes or get a cut from (rusty) metals. You can get tetanus shots before your trip, and/or be careful with open-toed shoes.
Stay away from stray dogs in India, as most of them are unpredictable, can give you Rabies and can bring a terrible end to your otherwise incredible vacation.
The biggest challenge we will all have is water and ice. We will only consume bottled water, unfortunately, including for brushing teeth and rinsing mouth. No exceptions to this rule; otherwise you may as well be prepared to lie on the floor of a bus or spend a lot of time hugging public toilets in India.
What will the weather be like on our retreat?
India is called a Subcontinent because of its very diverse geographical features - with highest mountain ranges, largest deltaic plains, Deccan plateau, Thar desert, coastal land, and densest of tropical, mangrove forests (Sundarbans). That means a very diverse weather. With the vast distance we are covering, here was December 2023 high and low temperature ranges:
Delhi: 75-79F and 46-49F
Agra: 73-79F and 45-49F
Varanasi: 72-79F and 46-49F
Chennai: 85F and 74F
Kochi: 89-90F and 74-76F
What if I want to extend my trip beyond the retreat?
I encourage you to think of extending your trip. India is diverse and you are already there! In that case, please consider extending after the retreat as you’ll be more familiar with the country, infrastructure, norms, people/language. Arriving before the retreat to explore a vastly unfamiliar country on your own may be more challenging. If you want to see mountains, then Shimla, Srinagar, Darjeeling, and Dharamsala are options; for spirituality and yoga, Rishikesh over Mysore; other once-in-a-lifetime options are camelback desert safari in Rajasthan, caves of Ajanta and Ellora, safari in the Sundarbans for seeing the famous Royal Bengal Tiger. For divine temples Kedarnath-Badrinath, Sun Temple in Orissa are very unique and celebrated even by Indian standards.
I am happy to provide general guidance and resources; please let me know.
I have specific dietary needs.
Our retreat is strictly vegetarian and non-alcoholic. Large selections of regional flavors using an abundant variety of lentils, beans, vegetables, cheese, eggs and bread is bound to keep anyone delighted — curries of the North and dosas of the South! An array of vegetarian and vegan food is easily available, no matter where we go in India. Avoiding garlic and onion is also well accepted traditionally. Since rice is a staple, a Gluten-free or Celiac diet is easily accommodated. We will do our very best to keep your belly happy and your journey memorable. However, we can only manage so much of what happens behind the scene at restaurants. So please bring appropriate medications, should the worst happen. Having your own nutritious snacks and protein bars at hand is not a bad idea. Please see our recommended packing list. If you crave or need meat and seafood, you can do so at your own expense, and pay directly to the restaurant for your meals; unfortunately I cannot subsidize such meals.
Street food. Experiencing India without street food will be regretful. Street food and truck-stop food stalls (Dhabba) are are some of the best meals I have ever had. Most food in North India is cooked very well, and sometimes for hours/days. Generally, such food is safe, but it can be very rich and spicy and unfamiliar to your system. I will ensure that our food stops are delicious yet comfortable. Avoid uncooked fruits and raw vegetables altogether unless you are in high-end restaurants catering to westerners. If you feel deprived of greens in your diet, please bring a packet of organic, open cell Chlorella tablets that will help alkalize your system.
Are we doing yoga everyday?
That’s the goal. However, some of our travel days may start early or become long or tiresome, and we’ll adjust accordingly. Please being one (travel) yoga mat. Somedays we’ll practice indoors, some outdoors, intense and restorative, and will also include some pranayama-meditation and some deep stretch classes.
Travel Mat: Here are a few suggestions at various price points and quality: JadeYoga Voyager ($46), Manduka eKO Superlite ($50), Zanti coconut fibre ($85), Jute travel yoga mat ($90), Liforme Travel ($124).
What about cell phone plans and money in India?
Cell Phone: Check with your provider: T-Mobile has a decent plan for India. Data and cell phone plans are cheap to purchase in India. I recommend getting a sim card at the Delhi airport with enough money (~$25) pre-loaded.
eSIM: Apple and Android platforms offer several options of eSIM apps; it is more convenient, versatile, and safer than physical SIM cards. For $10, Airalo offers 3GB data for 30 days, and for $52, Yesim offers unlimited data for 15 days in India. There are many other options.
Apps to download before your trip (to avoid SIM card related issues): Google Maps for the cities you’ll be in (particularly Delhi and Kochi, your arrival and departure cities, just in case); Google Translate; Uber, or Ola Cabs and connect your payment card ahead of your trip.
Money: Indian Rupee(s) is the currency and US$1 = Rs. 83 (approx.) There are many ATMs where you can withdraw money easily, some for a small fee. Credit cards are widely accepted, and I have never had any issue. I recommend having some Rupee at hand for tips, snacks or emergencies. Also remember to let your credit card company and bank know of your travel plans ahead so they do not freeze your account after seeing sudden foreign transactions.
What are good things to shop for in India?
Gosh, where do I begin? From amazing fabrics and handicrafts, to food and spices, as well as jewelry, sculptures and cars. (Yes, cars. Audi, Volkswagen, and Škoda are manufactured in Aurangabad. General Motors, Tata Motors, Mercedes-Benz, Land Rover, Jaguar, Fiat, and Force Motors have assembly plants in India as well.)
Automobiles aside, we recommend that you bring an extra duffle bag in your luggage. Silk, wool, cotton are used in stunningly gorgeous ways in clothes, linens and carpets. If you buy any nice clothes, shops typically will alter it to perfectly fit you right there for free. High quality Assam and Darjeeling tea, saffron, incense, natural perfume, ayurvedic stuff, wood carvings, stone carvings, gems and natural stones, fine silver and gold jewelry are just a few things to name here. As we are covering a variety of states, the regional handicrafts will be diverse and attractive. Although we have a packed agenda each day, we will make time for you to explore some of the artisan shops. And I’ll give you a crash course on hard bargaining!
What else should I be preparing for?
India is not a place that you can prepare for, no matter how well-traveled you are. Therein lies the practice of Yoga - to gently reduce the grip of your likes and dislikes, and to surrender to the idea that divinity will unfold your highest path.
When in India, … Even though we have an itinerary and daily plan, you can count on the fact that some/most of it will not pan out the way we have it planned. To try to bend it to conformity is similar to bending the natural flow of a river. While it is easy to talk about ‘surrendering to the divine’, India will test us walking the talk.
Poverty. This is likely the toughest thing to witness: beautiful and harmless people and children suffering unbearably without food and shelter; starving beggars with amputated limbs and eyes looking at tourists who are feasting and shopping. It is not uncommon to see stray dogs and people fighting over scraps from dumpsters. Places like India and Nepal stirs unimaginable sense of desperate compassion and rewrites our reference of ‘poverty’. We will discuss more about this and how to protect your psyche while not closing your heart. If people come begging, do not propagate that behavior by giving them money; wave your hand or head in a declining gesture. You can start with a soft “Nehi” (nay-hee), meaning “no”, and be rigid if pestered.
Theft and street-smart. Protect your belonging at all times: carry travel purses that are well-hidden, only limited amounts of emergency funds when we are out and about; use effective locks in all luggage and listen to your group leader. Do not separate from the group and be on time. If you are missing from pre-determined meet-up points, we will have to create a search party and that will severely interrupt our travel plans. The large volume of people, vehicle, sights and sounds will demand that you are constantly aware and conscious of your surrounding, wellbeing, and possessions.
Tradition and courtesy. The right-handed tantra traditions make it customary and respectful to use only the right hand for exchange of money, giving and receiving food, etc. It is also customary, if not required, to take your shoes off before entering any temple, private residences, and religious spaces. Touching anything, or pointing at anything with your feet is strictly prohibited and constitutes the worst type of cultural disrespect. It is impolite to decline offer of food, or to leave leftovers; take/order only what you can consume and do not waste; many people go hungry every day in India, including people who work in restaurants.
Namaste gesture is often used as greeting, or goodbye, or thank you. Use it often, along with kindness through your eyes. People tend to look at each others’ eyes to gauge the purity of your expression.
Remember that you are a short-time guest in their country and tradition; you are there to see and to learn. Embrace that role wholeheartedly.
Temples: In all temples and spiritual sites, women have to cover their shoulders and legs (at least below the knees), and men have to wear long pants. Wearing hats are not allowed. When we go to the Sikh temple and Islamic mosques, women are required to cover their heads; having a shawl or sarong will be helpful. Shoes are not allowed in any temple.
Tipping: No-thanks to this custom in USA, the whole world is getting on the bandwagon of expecting ‘tips’. Generally, you do not need to tip in restaurants. You are requested to consider tipping your hotel man/maid service as they barely make a living. We will visit a very special cafe in Agra run by women victims of acid attack, where it will be a kind gesture to tip. Tipping our Tour Bus drivers and Indian guides (not me!) is expected as a part of the tourism industry catering to westerners.
Staring. You will have to get used to people staring at you. It is just a normal expression of curiosity and interest. Vast majority of Indians are not used to seeing or being near foreigners of different color and race. They are just observing your ways of being. It’s part of their culture and not considered rude at all. If you catch someone staring, you can just smile, gesture ‘Namaste’ and move on.
Crowded. India is roughly 1/4th the size of USA with 4 times the population. That makes it 16 times more densely populated. Imagine your house and how many live there; now live with 16 times more people that house! Personal space is not a thing here, and this shows up anytime you are in a line to buy tickets, or enter a venue, or wait for a bus. Fortunately, we will be in a large group looking after each other. But if you are traveling alone this becomes the most alert, exhausting, and uncomfortable part of your adventure. India is generally a safe and respectful place, but there are thieves and pickpockets.
Photography. A unique development in the age of social media is that random people and families will walk up to you and request to take your photos/selfies with them. The British rule had created a sense of superiority with any affiliation with Caucasians who are generally considered beautiful, privileged, educated, wealthy, and in general superior and celebrated - and some of that may indeed be true - that permeates Indian psychology even today, for better or worse. The influence of Hollywood is all-pervasive as well. Use your discretion to determine if you want to accept or decline such requests and please be polite. Some such requests may be to distract you, while your pocket or purse get picked or stolen. Be careful!
Generally, you can take photos of people and scenes without much hesitation. However, if these are old people, or yogis, please ask for their permission, and/or make a gesture of ‘Namaste’ as a thank you after you take any photos. Be careful of reading signs at religious sites to ensure it is okay to take photos; otherwise your phone or camera can get confiscated.
Mother India is known to change people for the better, and I hope that she will change you too.